Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires careful planning and a lot of work. For the most part, you will require to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to choose the type of shower that you wish to set up. articles on home ownership It is necessary to establish whether the chosen shower can coping with particular systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. The majority of shower systems nowadays are designed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).
It is also crucial to consider the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and very easy to set up. However, although the tube connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a really inexpensive choice and no extra plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with troublesome temperature control alternatives.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. One of the most significant advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of an effective electric pump that is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is very important to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit permits the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in use within the family. A major drawback of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this issue is dealt with in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head should either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. Additionally, the drain system to eliminate the waste water will need to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will also require to be considered if an instantaneous or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the direction guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to protect the pipes, they must be given a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leakages, as some may need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there must be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be lifted to a greater height (sometimes as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood assistance underneath it-- potentially composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this alternative, the primary and circulation pipelines will also need to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the go to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to maintain optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can achieve this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.
# Using pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall remains in place.
# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outside hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.